Day 104.2: Lower 9th Ward and Holy Cross
Day 104.2: April 14, 2014: Lower 9th Ward and Holy Cross, New Orleans
The exploration continues. After passing through the Bywater on our bike ride, we headed out along the levee past the abandoned naval complex and out across the bridge to Holy Cross in the Lower 9th Ward. While this area of the Lower 9th Ward wasn’t flooded as badly as the areas north of Claiborne, most of the area was still left under at least a couple feet of water when these levees along this industrial canal failed after Katrina hit.
There were also some awesome little walkways and tunnels around this canal that I wish I had time to explore. 🙂
Crossing the bridge, we came upon the first signs of the flooding nearly 9 years ago. This house next to the canal was in ruins, while the former Holy Cross school sits abandoned and graffitied in the background to the left. Most of the area has been rebuilt, however, and the spirit of recovery is evident even in those that have not. I didn’t get a photo, but a half block or so down from here was an empty foundation, presumably the site of a house lost to the floodwaters. I got the feeling that the owner didn’t want this to be a sad sight, however, but one of hope. While the foundation was empty, the yard was well kept and the front gate decorated in a welcoming way. Even though the house was gone, the owner had clearly not forgotten it, and seems to be on the way back home to this spot someday. I sure hope they make it.
On, other streets, farther from the levee, you would never know what happened here almost a decade ago. Out here, brightly colored and intricately decorated houses are as welcoming as can be.
We even met a friendly little pup on the steps of one of the Doullot steamboat houses by the river. I wish the rain hadn’t cut our journey short: So much was left unseen. I will have to come back for another round, New Orleans.
(Kodak Ektar 100 in the Canon Sureshot A1 and Rollei CR200 in the EOS3)
Day 104.1: Biking the Bywater
Day 103: April 14, 2014: Bywater, New Orleans
With the music festival wrapping up over the weekend, we decided to rent some bikes to do cover some ground and explore a bit farther from the center of New Orleans today. Unfortunately, the forecast didn’t look all that cooperative…
Nonetheless, we took our chances and headed out for a cruise through the Bywater, revisiting some of the area I ran through the day before, and covering some interesting territory farther from the river.
This arch serves as the main entrance to Crescent Park, crossing over the tracks to the trails that make up the park, lining the river.
I’m not certain if this old burned out wharf on the edge of the park will eventually be removed, or if it is a permanent fixture, but I kinda hope it stays as a reminder of the history of this land. Also, note the cool old riverboat making it’s way up the Mississippi.
And note the slightly larger river traffic that followed. I grew up on a river, but way too far inland to see anything like this, so it was amazing to see this huge ships making their way upriver.
At the edge of the Bywater, we came across this old Navy compound, which seems to have been largely abandoned, save for the two Ready Reserve Force ships, MV Cape Kennedy and MV Cape Knox, docked at it’s edge. I only notice these because we have two docked along the waterfront in San Francisco, as well. From my previous research, I’ve learned that these transport ships are operated and kept in a constant state of readiness by the US Maritime Administration, with the idea that they could be fully activated on a few days notice to provide transport of resources for military operations around the globe, as well as supplies for humanitarian assistance following disasters in the US and abroad. In fact, it seems these two ships were actually used as headquarters to support the recovery and relief efforts for some time after Hurricane Katrina. We only saw these from afar, but having kayaked up to the ones in the SF bay, I can say that they are some impressively gigantic ships.
Finally, while racing back to get our bikes returned before the downpour hit, I had to stop for at least one shot of the brightly colored Bywater homes. As you may have guessed from the ominous skies, we didn’t quite beat the rain… And I can say, New Orleans rain is not like SF rain. I believe I was thoroughly soaked, in spite of my rain jacket, within about 30 seconds. 🙂
(A mix of Kodak Ektar 100 in the Canon Sureshot A1, and Rollei CR200 slides in the EOS 3)
Day 103: Hot 8 on the Fried Chicken Stage
Day 103: April 13, 2014: New Orleans
Closing out the French Quarter Festival with the Hot 8 Brass Band on the Popeye’s stage, and they killed it. With the fenced in grounds of the old mint packed to capacity, crowds filled the streets outside to get a taste of that sweet sweet music. (Presumably after getting their fill of sweet sweet beignets down the street)
Not much else to say here. The music was awesome, the setup with awesome, the food was awesome, the daiquiris were dangerous, and I love this city’s vibe. With the festival over, a bit more exploration was in order over the next day and a half before heading back home.
(All shots on Rollei CR200 in the EOS 3, which I seem to have consistently underexposed. The dangers of testing a random new film while traveling…)
Day 102: Just The Way You Are
Day 102: April 12, 2014: Bywater, New Orleans
I don’t know if it’s right to call the Bywater an artist’s district, considering that the entirety of New Orleans seems to flow with artists and musicians, but I got a feeling that this area had a higher artist concentration than elsewhere. There also seems to be a certain amount of contention with the hipster demographic coming in, which reminds me of other historically art-centric districts in other cities. Either way, I went out exploring on a morning run and just loved this neighborhood. Filled with random art installations, fantastically bright colors, and wonderful architecture, it was a treat to explore.
I stuck mostly to Chartres on this particular morning, heading out to take a peek at the new Crescent Park along the Mississippi, which I had noticed on a map. It’s currently a bit difficult to get across the train tracks to the park (I believe there will eventually be an entrance on the west end of the park once everything is finished), but I was in no hurry and didn’t have much trouble finding my way to the footbridge and over into the park. Probably owing to both the difficulty of entry and the early morning hour, I felt like I had the place to myself, only coming across a handful of other runners and bikers on the jogging and biking paths that run the 1.4 mile length of the park, alongside the river and the historical remains of crumbling wharfs that dominated this stretch not too long ago.
The park is gorgeous little swath of green sandwiched between the commercial shipping on the river and the freight trains on the inland side. After a couple days with all of the crowds and drinks and all of the craziness of New Orleans, this place was my morning refuge, providing a place to escape it all and clear my head for an hour or so. More than just an escape, though, I loved the way the park was designed to retain a connection to its history, both in proximity to this active industrial transport on both sides and in the repurposing of the existing wharfs and structures to provide historical context. I got some alone time, a run, some history, and some photos.
Throw in a beignet and think this place would have everything I could possibly need to recharge for another busy day. 🙂
By the way, Elizabeth’s has delicious and somewhat comically large po-boys and other foods. 
Rise and Preserve, indeed, NOLA.
(All shots taken on the run with Kodak Ektar 100 in the Canon Sureshot A1 SLC P9, which I hadn’t taken out before. Unfortunately I discovered that it needs a cleaning after it scratched the bejeezus out of my film, requiring some liberal use of the clone tool on the scans)
Day 101: Of Balconies, Dr. John, and Ghettoburgers
Day 101: April 11, 2014: New Orleans, LA
Another solid day in New Orleans. Filling up our daiquiri bottles, we started off with a walk through the French Quarter, hitting up stages as we went, eventually making it to one of the main stages to see Dr. John in the afternoon. For the most part, there were so many stages that crowds at any one weren’t too bad, but this one tested my patience. After spending a good chunk of time stuck shoulder to shoulder in walkways that weren’t moving, and almost giving up on it, we found a secret little spot to catch the show without having to deal with the full crowd. In the end, worth the hassle.
From there, it was on to the Popeye’s Stage near our house for some brass band action, where these guys with their balcony had the best seats in the house. I can’t get enough of the architecture and the balconies and just the soul of this city.
And, to top off the night, a U-Haul truck pulled up and plopped the “Ghetto Burger” trailer right in front of our house. Fresh made patty grilled to perfection and covered in BBQ sauce of a quality that just doesn’t happen in SF. Even the guy from Kansas City in front of me in line said it was the best BBQ he’s ever had in New Orleans. Get it.
(Top photo: Rollei CR200 slide film in the Canon EOS 3 SLR, Middle photos: Canon 6D digital, Bottom: iPhone. Using a bit of everything today)
Day 100: French Quarter Fest
Day 100: April 10, 2014: French Quarter Festival, New Orleans
More music, less photos today. From the French Quarter Festival along the Mississippi in the afternoon, to Kermit Ruffins at the Mother in Law Lounge in the evening, to our Frenchmen Street Brass Band at night. Not a bad day.
(Arista Premium B&W [rebranded Kodak Tri-X 400] in the Canon Sureshot A1 SLC P9 snow leopard camera, iPhone below)
Day 99.2: Sorry Darlin’: A Night on Frenchmen Street
Day 99.2: April 9, 2014: Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana
From DFW to NOLA, where even the ATMs have a little bit of southern hospitality. Staying at a house a block off Frenchmen Street, we were treated to nightly brass band performances from our balcony, along with several great bars, restaurants, and music venues. Apparently this area used to be a local scene, in contrast to the touristy French Quarter, but has drawn more outside visitors over the years, largely because of its local reputation. Since we rolled in on Wednesday at the early end of the French Quarter Festival, the area wasn’t too busy on our first night, while we spent most of the evening hopping in and out of bars and catching a bits of several live bands. Not a bad way to start the visit. I could get used to this. 🙂
(Arista Premium B&W [rebranded Kodak Tri-X 400] in the Canon Sureshot A1 SLC P9 snow leopard camera)
Day 99.1: Making Friends at DFW
Day 99.1: April 9, 2014: Dallas-Fort Worth Airport
Killing time and making friends on the way to New Orleans. DFW is a brutal airport to travel through. It seems that every destination, whether my connecting gate or the ONLY tequila bar in the airport, was at least three stops away on that pokey loop train, while everything near my gate was far outside of my snobby San Francisco bar tastes. :p
It turns out that people in DFW aren’t always the happiest to have their photos taken. I’m always a little uncertain about taking too many photos in airports, lest I run afoul of any overeager security forces and end up on some sort of no-fly list, but there was nothing else to do here, so off I went a-snapping. Several photos and a tequila or two later, it was off to New Orleans.
(Arista Premium B&W [rebranded Kodak Tri-X 400] in the Canon Sureshot A1 SLC P9 snow leopard camera)
Day 96: A Silent Violin
Day 96: April 6, 2014: Civic Center Station
This man played a silent, stringless violin, and danced to his own music. Everyone watched from afar, but when they approached, only the children acknowledged his presence.
(Kodak TMax 400)
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